Review: The Amsterdam, Rhinebeck

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As a couple that live on the outskirts of Rhinebeck, we never admitted it, but we had never been to The Amsterdam in Rhinebeck since they opened up in 2017. We also had not gone on a date yet this year (okay, it’s, like, only the third week in January, but still...)

So, we bundled up on a Thursday night because I, being a bit of a grouchy local, know (believe/think) that it’s better to support our small businesses during the week, and it’s also better for our/my patience finding parking. My wife drove around the block and, yes, fine, despite it being a weeknight, we didn’t see any spots on the street. The municipal lot behind the post office was pretty empty, no traffic as we crossed Route 9 either. “Are they parking there?” Yeah, it was a spot, but an older woman was getting assisted out, so again, fine.

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The Amsterdam

6380 Mill Street, Rhinebeck

BREAKFAST
Daily, 8:00am - 11:00am

LUNCH
Monday - Friday, 11:00am - 2:30pm

WEEKEND BRUNCH
Saturday & Sunday, 11:00am to 2:30pm in between brunch and dinner on weekends we serve our mid-day snacks menu at the bar and in the backyard

DINNER
Sunday - Thursday, 5:30pm to 9:00pm
Friday & Saturday, 5:30pm to 9:30pm

Reservations Encouraged

Bar open all day

https://www.lovetheamsterdam.com/

After walking through the doors of The Amsterdam, we were greeted by the host and waitstaff who led us to our two-top table. Now, from the outside of the building you’d think it was a simple re-imagined house-restaurant a la Aroi Thai around the corner – because, well, it was a 1798 Dutch townhouse. Instead, a tall ceiling opened the room, brightening the space, accented by walls of white subway tile, and balanced with dark wood tables dotted throughout. A wall of wine bottles were backlit, almost teetering by their necks (I’ll catch you!), above the open kitchen where the chefs were busy with their head’s down chopping, reading orders, doing cooking things. (Disclaimer: I am not the chef in our relationship.)

For a Thursday night, the bar was full and the dining room began to fill as we were filling ourselves – and filling ourselves we did. The portions were not pretentious, and so mouthwateringly delicious that I thought, for a brief moment of hysteria, that I would take some of my wild mushroom gnocchi (with chunks of sunchokes, artichokes, truffles, parmesan and hazelnuts) home. Have leftovers of it. Hilarious. The plate was filled, a foam light and floating over square-bursts of the best gnocchi I’ve had, maybe ever. (RIP Portofino’s…) It was a simple hope to have leftovers, but I kept picking, and picking, then the wife picked, and then there was no point on saving anything for later.

Same for our starter – a smoked ham charcuterie with farm-fresh pickles. That’s all you need to know.

No, just kidding, but they were delicious pickles. And paired with the smoked ham, mustard loaded with seeds and brioche – we were concocting experiments with every bite, a little bit of this and that – and they all passed the test with happy eating noises. Even though we weren’t as adventurous as the menu’s chicken liver mousse or foie torchon charcuterie, after this night, I feel ready to take it to the next level.

During the main dish, my wife didn’t talk to me the whole time she was eating her P.E.I. Mussels with saffron cream and garlic. Who knows, maybe she did; I was busy engorging myself on that gnocchi. We smiled at each other between bites. “Good?” Good. So good. Happy. Full.

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Dessert.
I actually stopped to take a picture of this one, not just because I failed to remember to take a photo before eating any other part of this meal, but because it looked as good as it was – a Spanish-style cheesecake made with sheep’s milk ricotta and topped with a fresh mixed berry marmalade and a crust with a soft crunch, the right amount of give and take. Yes, please. Gracias.

It came as no surprise to learn that one of the hands behind all of this deliciousness, Executive Chef Alex Burger, has an extensive background, including, among many others, time at legendary French chef Daniel Boulud’s restaurant, Bar Boulud in New York City. You could tell Burger likes to spend quality time with quality food. Each element of the dishes were thoughtful, resourcefully pairing seasonally-available ingredients to complete hearty dishes; each bite filled to make you Meg Ryan a little in the middle of Rhinebeck.

We ate. We talked and giggled. Then we ate more. And more. And had some wine. So, more giggling … Then coffee and crossing the street to go home where we talked about what we’d get when we go back again. It was the perfect date night … so far this year.

Niki DeLawder
Niki DeLawder is the founder + publisher of HVNY and loves food but burns almost everything she tries to make. Email her at
hello.hvny@gmail.com.